Wine Blogging Wednesday #31: Box Wine.

It’s all relative. That’s what they say.

Ask a wine critic what makes a great wine experience. You’ll probably hear words like balance, power, elegance, subtlety, beauty, depth. All expected, to some degree. All defensible. Respectable. Words you’d find yourself nodding along to as you hear them. But thing about your own wine experiences – your truly memorable wine experiences. (If you have had any – maybe you’ve never had a glass of wine before in your life. In that case, onward, ye temperate soldier! Cast not thine eyes upon the vines of treachery as thou drivest up Highway 29!) I’d be willing to bet that for nearly all of them, there’s a good story to go along with that wine.

Think about it – how many great wine experience stories go something like, “I bought this wine at the store. I took it home and drank it. It was great. It changed my life.” Probably not many – at least not that indistinct. If the wine really was that great, you probably remember what time of year it was, if not what day, who you were with, where you were, if you ate anything with it, and how long it took you to finish it off. Just like Tolstoy says, it’s all about context. Well first he says it’s about transitions, then context, but I can’t think of a good way to fit transitions into this discussion so forget that part. Who cares about Tolstoy anyway. Anna Karenina is overrated. That’s right, Nabokov, I said it!

All right, time for this post to go somewhere. Point is, wine is as much about the environment it is enjoyed in as it is about the quantitative pleasure that it itself can bring. And all of this goes a great deal toward explaining why I found the 2004 Killer Juice Cabernet Sauvignon, my contribution for this month’s Wine Blogging Wednesday event, not all that bad of a wine. As box wines go, it probably isn’t the best you can find, or even the near-best, but under the right circumstances it can be enjoyed as a good sub-$10 bottle.

What’s that, you say? You’ve had Killer Juice Cab and it tastes like someone poured a gallon of grape juice into a pot, boiled it down to half its size, then left it to its own devices for a year in a basement? OK, that’s a valid opinion. I’m not here to say you’re wrong. As I said, it’s all about context. Let me set the scene for my tasting:  We were on a bus halfway up a mountain in the middle of the Mendocino County woods. Middle of the night. No electricity – not even a flashlight. A few candles so we could see what we were doing. For food, we had a takeout pizza we’d picked up from town half an hour back. That bus is a place I’ve spent a great deal of time in and around over the last five years, much of it spent with the two friends of mine whom I happened to be sharing the bus with at the time. So I was in a good place, but certainly not the kind of place one would normally conduct any kind of wine tasting. Did the context affect my perception of the wine? Hell yes. Do I care? Nope.

Oh right, tasting note. The Killer Juice Cabernet Sauvignon came in a three-liter box painted black with a wacky flaming logo. (Too dark in the bus for photos, sorry.) The spigot took some work to extract, which was mildly annoying, but we didn’t experience any drip problems like boxwines.org did. Once poured (into coffee mugs), this wine has a much more purplish tinge than most cabernet; at first glance one might take it for a petite sirah. Not much of a nose; grapey, a little sweet. On the palate, well, fermented grape juice…no harsh metallic taste or alcoholic burn, but not much other than some unassuming fruit, maybe of the blueberry variety. No finish to speak of. Ultimately, I don’t think I’ll make this buy for my own kitchen any time soon. But as we huddled around the candles in the bus and ate cold pizza, it worked for us.

Thanks for the great topic, boxwines.org!

March 14, 2007. Wine Blogging Wednesdays, Wine Talk. Leave a comment.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #30: Wrap up.

Tim over at Winecast has posted the round up for Wine Blogging Wednesday #30, the quest for New World Syrah. The entries this time were many (50) and varied (four continents’ worth of wine), and the summary features lots of good writing on a lot of good wine, so if you haven’t already, head on over and peruse the results. Good readin’, good drinkin’. Tim (I hope) avoided a major disaster recently involving frozen pipes, fire, and his wine cellar. I’m no scientist, but I know that frozen water plus fire plus wine equals bad. For someone who probably spent less time this weekend with cellartracker than with his cellar cracker (ugh! sorry!), he did a great job getting everything up, so cheers to Winecast. Check it out.

February 13, 2007. Wine Blogging Wednesdays, Wine Talk. Leave a comment.

Wine Blogging Wednesday #30: New World Syrah.

 My inaugural contribution to Wine Blogging Wednesday is an extension of the entries on global warming’s effect on California wine regions that I’ve posted over the last few days. You can read the first two entries here and here. For this WBW, our instructions from Tim Elliott at Winecast, this WBW’s host, were to select a New World syrah/shiraz, so I’ve picked a syrah from a cool-climate vineyard to see if there’s anything different about it from the other Santa Barbara County syrah I’ve tried, most of which have come from Santa Ynez or Santa Maria. I have a vague memory of trying a 2003 Kenneth-Crawford Syrah at a tasting about a year ago, but nothing I can recollect. Maybe that’s a bad sign, but it’s far more likely to be simply the byproduct of my misfiring brain.

 2004 Kenneth-Crawford Syrah Lafond Vineyard

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Kenneth-Crawford is a sourcing project from the duo of Kenneth Gummere, formerly of Lafond, and Mark Crawford Horvath, formerly of Babcock. It seems like there are a lot of these partnership projects in Santa Barbara these days – Brewer-Clifton, Barrel 27 (McPrice Myers and Russell From), etc. This bottle comes from the Lafond vineyard, which is in the southeast corner of the Santa Rita Hills AVA.

This wine is a dark purple-tinged ruby, not the most opaque syrah in the world but a dark and alluring color nonetheless. I threw it into a carafe (not literally, but there’s a visual) to let it breathe for a bit, but even after a few minutes it was developing a potent bouquet of tart berries, bacon fat, and something a little gamey. Very nice, and it only improved from there. After about an hour, I poured myself a glass. At first it took a moment to establish itself, but then the flavors started to come through: blackberries, graphite, a bit of herbs and spices, and a rich earthiness. The earthiness reminded me of some of the wines I’ve tried from the Languedoc, and it made me wonder for a moment if there was a touch of grenache in this wine, but no. There’s tannins here, too, that could probably use a year or two to settle down completely, and a good amount of acidity – more than I’ve tasted in most Central Coast syrahs. It’s a very structured wine in comparison to many of its Santa Ynez brethren. As time went on, the flavors began to build and coalesce, although it never felt too big, and the acidity always kept it in check. While I haven’t tasted enough California syrah to state definitively that this wine epitomizes cool-climate syrah, I feel that I could point out the characteristics that differentiate it – its structure and earth notes, mainly – relatively easily.

I bought it for about $35, making it one of the more expensive syrahs I’ve ever acquired. Considering the price and the amount of time I think this wine needs before it really starts hitting its stride, I don’t know if I’ll seek out another bottle. (I would like to try Lafond Winery’s estate syrah, if I can find a bottle in LA.) But as my first recognized foray into Californian cool-climate syrah, this was a very nice wine, and one that went well with the lamb braised in milk and roasted root vegetables that I made that night. (This WBW probably made lamb prices at local meat markets jump a little, eh?) I look forward to trying other Santa Rita Hills wines, including those from the Melville and Sanford vineyards, and I urge you to check these wines out too, as it’s impossible to say how much longer the conditions that allowed them to thrive will be around.

February 7, 2007. Global Warming, Wine Blogging Wednesdays, Wine Talk. 2 comments.